Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Project!

I'm as surprised as you are that I have a project in Minnesota. I didn't think I would ever see the day again.
Insectaphobe is a 14a that was done maybe seven or eight years ago by Andy Raether, and has seen between 3 and 5 repeats. Joel Anderson and Jim Merli for sure, maybe a guy named Pi, and, possibly, Scott Hahn. It starts on a tensiony, technical 15' section (v7-8?), to a good edge. From there, a hard v8 or v9 crimp problem constitutes the crux. Now, I'm not all that sure about this - I did the v8 or v9 thing in 2006 - it's the crux of the traversing Blankman - it could be easier or harder. And I'm not sure that the start is about that hard either - I've done all the moves in it except the last one or two to the decent edge. Anyway, after these two cruxes, you gain a large pocket, and finish on the classic crux of Mississippi Burning, a 12b (thin v4 boulder). So I've been thinking about this almost incessantly since I tried the start on Sunday, and couldn't resist writing (spraying?) about it online. Does it count as spraying if you haven't done it yet? I'd say that's the opposite of spraying, because it sets you up for failure.

Months later...

"So did you ever do Insectaphobe? I read that you were working on it, like, forever ago."
"..."

No pictures yet, but I'll post 'em if I can get 'em. If anyone wants to work it, I'll be messing around with it afternoons and weekends for the next couple of months.

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