Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Injury Part 3 / Jedi Can Look Into The Future But Sometimes That Future Is Clouded By The Dark Side

I got back a positive diagnosis of an A4 sprain yesterday, confirmed by MR. That's good; I like that my flexor digitorum superficialis is still attached to my middle finger. Depending on my healing, it will probably be a while (one to three more weeks?) before the initial inflammation goes down. At that point, I'll start challenging it a little, to see what I can do without pain in the joint. Crack climbing may be possible. It should be about four to six weeks after that (?) before the injury is repaired. By that point, I should be so good at open handed climbing and cracks that I don't need to crimp on it (and maybe by the fall or winter I can take a trip back to HCR to get back on Glass Bowl, Flash Gordon, and go to Fountain Red and Fred's Cave.
It's tough to say what's going to happen in terms of my training, for now. Even if I could, theoretically, recover completely before the summer, I'm not sure I really want to go on a trip to RMNP with my finger in recovery mode. It just sounds risky, or foolhardy, or something, even if it's just in terms of expectations. If I got to do some bouldering this summer, that would be great, but I think I might push myself to do something new.
I have been working out on the stairmaster and exercise bike about four days a week (114 flights yesterday!), have continued all my other exercises (pushups, pull ups, front levers, crunches, leg lifts, reverse wrist curls, rotator cuff stuff, dips, ab machines, pronator/supinator exercise) and, assuming this stiff hamstring and sore knee can be gently remedied, and I can continue to train for it for the next six weeks, maybe I will have the fitness to make the summer into a mountaineering endeavor. That's the plan right now, anyway.
I want to see what the western slope is like (do they have good bookstores and coffee shops in Grand Junction? What's the traffic like? What's the architecture, climate, scenery, and CLIMBING? The residency program in family med is pretty awesome there, and I want to see if I would like the setting as well), and I want to go to the Tetons. There are lots of easy, long, scrambles there, that I can do straight out of the climber's camp. It could be a really nice place to stay for a few weeks, and gain some fitness, learn the weather patterns, spend a ton of time outside, etc. I could stand to commune with wilderness for a while.
Also, I get to see one of my favorite people in the world get married this summer. And another of my favorite people in the world get married this fall. It's going to be a good year.

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