I thought it would be fun to list some problems that I managed to do in Leavenworth, and list a few projects for next time. Don't judge if the numbers are low. This place is hard! (At least, for me). Lots of problems that I did are not in the book, and I didn't write them down. They just looked great at the time. Every problem I did was awesome. However, some merit an exclamation point or two. I listed a few onsights of which I am particularly proud. I did most of these alone. At some point, I will get a chance to upload some videos.
V0
Cool Down, Fridge
Fridge Slab, Fridge
Alpine Feel, Mad Meadows
Wooly Mammoth, Mad Meadows
Heir Apparent, Mad Meadows
The Rail, Barney's Rubble
Runner, Forestland
Marathon Man, Forestland
Abstraction, Forestland
Breadline, Forestland
Concavity, Forestland
Silly with an S, Forestland
Heartstone, Forestland
Cowardly Lion, Forestland
Moondog, Forestland Fun to do with no hands!! (even if no one else wants to, and even scowls at me when I suggest how much fun it is.)
Tahitian Moon, Forestland
Campus Problem, Carnival Boulders !!
Fen Fin, Carnival Boulders
Dan Akroyd, Carnival Boulders
Rick Moranis, Carnival Boulders
Straight Shot, Twisted Tree
Sumthin', Twisted Tree
Band of Gypsies, Machine Gun
Boxers, The Sword
The Crack, The Sword
The Taint, The Sword
Dingleberry Junction, The Sword
X1, The Sword
Cubicle Gangster, The Sword
Played Like a Poop Butt, The Sword
Sofa King, The Sword
The Stairway, The Sword
Funiculi Funicula, Egg
Terrapin Station, Egg
Rider, Egg
Bertha, Egg
V1
Sound Asleep, Sleeping Lady Wall
The Hueco Route, Mad Meadows - with Nicole kick!
Barnacles, Mad Meadows
The Rudder, Mad Meadows
The Dish, Mad Meadows
Crank, Mad Meadows
Rainbow, Barney's Rubble !! This is among the most thrilling climbs I've ever done, ever.
Funhouse Stairway, Barney's Rubble
Tree Crack, Barney's Rubble
Dredge, Forestland
The Scarecrow, Forestland
Slickfoot Holiday, Forestland
Against the Wall, Carnival Boulders
Butt Surfing, Carnival Boulders
The Brawl, Carnival Boulders ! - tall and has this burnt out tree behind it, so that if you fell, you would be skewered on on of the fire hardened branch spear tips!
Dutty Rock, Carnival Boulders
Over Myself, Carnival Boulders
With a Twist, Twisted Tree
Dirty Harry, Machine Gun
Leftmost Problem at Machine Gun
V2
The Sleeping Lady !!
Fridge Door, Fridge
Flounder, Mad Meadows
Madvillian, Mad Meadows
The Break, Mad Meadows
The Scoop, Mad Meadows
The Hesitator, Barney's Rubble ! I did this one a bunch of times. So much fun.
The Phatness, Barney's Rubble
Squeezer, Forestland
Lock and Pop, Forestland
Fedge, Forestland
Clod Hopper, Forestland
Sunny and Steep, Forestland
Bad Moon Rising, Forestland. Fun. Os, then Tennie Ascent
Death to Rednecks, Forestland
Heeler, Carnival Boulders
Feelin Sappy, Carnival Boulders !
Little One, Twisted Tree - both variations are great!!
Machine Gun Funk, Machine Gun
White Sands, The Sword
X2, The Sword
I (heart) Jugs, The Sword
The Classic, The Sword
Carlisle, Egg
Smokestack Lightnin', Egg. Tall, and kind of scary! os.
China Cat, Egg
Missin Nugget, Hueco Crimper Boulder
V3
Pocket Rocket, Mad Meadows
Squarepusher, Mad Meadows
The Lamb, Mad Meadows
Drugstore Cowboy, Mad Meadows
Spongebob Squarepad, Mad Meadows
The Rail, Mad Meadows
The Tentacles, Mad Meadows
Winterbottom Arete, Mad Meadows
Arrested Development, Forestland
Fiend it Like a Crack, Forestland !
Lovage, Forestland
The Ferret, Carnival Boulders
Grain Brain, Carnival Boulders
Nuthin', Twisted Tree
Buddy Miles, Machine Gun
Briefs, The Sword
Bowled Over, The Sword
The Wizard, The Sword
The Sword, The Sword. Fun problem. Asked someone the night before about this, then did it on first try the next morning, by myself, right before I left to come back to Minnesota. Tall, beautiful. Not as scary as I was expecting.
Weather Report, Egg. OS
V4
Jumping Spiders, Fridge !
Fridge Center, Fridge (OS) !
Fridge Right, Fridge !
Swordfish, Mad Meadows
The Pocket, Mad Meadows - 1 pad, no spotters. kind of hairy
The Flake, Mad Meadows
The Ampitheater, Mad Meadows
The Real Thing, Forestland
Toto, Forestland OS
The Physical, Forestland
Funny and Cheap, Forestland !! no one else likes this climb. :(
Twisted Tree, Twisted Tree !
Sunshine Daydream, Egg. flash
Ace, Egg. OS
Claim Jumper, Hueco Crimper Boulder. OS This thing used to have a jug on it, but now it's this great pinch that you throw to. Really amazing! The guy I was with said that he hadn't seen anyone do it the way that I did, which warms my heart.
V5
The Lizard, Fridge !
The Undercling, Mad Meadows ! OS, with no spotters, and just a pad. fun!
One Summer, Forestland
Dark Hollow, Egg.
Han Solo's Lightsaber Tournament, Beach Parking. !!
V6
The Hole, Mad Meadows. Finally! I tried this with a really powerful throw to from a sloper to a sloper that was beyond my reach, lots of times. It turns out all you need to do is bicycle! Did it after a couple of tries once I was told about the bicycle. Some day I will be able to read that kind of thing.
The Ruminator, Forestland. Flash. - Tall and fun.
Mr. Leftist, Twisted Tree 3 tries. great movement! tough topout. The time before I did it clean, I took a fall trying to rock over, and ripped a bunch of skin off my chest. Fun!
The Hueco Crimper, Hueco Crimper Boulder. Crafty heel hooking!
Right Side of Hueco Crimper Boulder. Fun little problem.
V7
Backdoor Ass Attack, Forestland Loved this problem! 6 or 7 tries in one session. This is a powerful sloper problem (for me). I did it on my first day, and ripped off all my skin. It never grew back completely.
V8
The Jib, Mad Meadows - A single move power problem. 4th try or so. !
V9
The Coffee Cup, Forestland. Beautiful, powerful problem! I think it's the hardest boulder I've finished, probably anywhere. I did it in maybe 8 or 12 tries, if you count the times I walked up to it and felt the starting holds, said, "yeah right", and sat back down. One session.
Areas to visit:
Clamshell - Lots of easy problems for a long circuit day.
Pretty Boulders - Another good easy problem circuit area, and it has the Pretty Hate Machine, a v8. Besides being a NIN fan for life, I have heard that this climb is one of the best in Leavenworth.
Lots of Areas in Tumwater!!! Jenny Craig, Swiftwater, The Beach, etc.
Mountain Home Road, if I can get there outside of August.
Projects:
The Sail, v9, Mad Meadows. Jeez, this thing is brutal. If I'm going to do it in any reasonable amount of time, some beta would be helpful.
The Practitioner, v11, Forestland - nice looking climb. I think I can actually do this, with some work, some help, and some luck.
Fridge Left, v8, Fridge - got really close on this!
Pimpsqueak, v9, Mad Meadows - After a conversation with a friendly local, and a session on it, I figured this one out. It needs two pads, so I had a tough time working it, unfortunately. Next time, if I have a couple of pads.
Slice of Pie, v2, Barney's Rubble. Scary. Maybe it was how slimy the holds were, or how tired I was, combined with the horrible landing. But really, this thing was scary. I backed off from the twenty foot mark a couple of times.
Lock and Load, v4, Forestland. Shockingly powerful sloper problem. Harder moves than the v7 sloper problem that I actually did. Bad beta? Who cares? I want to do the problem as I worked it in that session.
WAS, v8. I got to the false summit on this one, and didn't stick the move to the jug! I had been climbing for four days at that point, morning and night, so I'm confident that I can do it next time. An elegant climb.
The Rib, v4, Carnival Boulders. Tall, insecure, and heady. One or two pads, and a spotter, and I'll go for it.
The Hourglass, v7. Almost did it! Will do it next time. Cool conditions will help a bit.
Other than lots of bouldering, I read, and wrote (and occasionally soloed a few easy pitches). I've been into writing fiction, and used most of my blogging energy to do that. Hence not many posts.
I won't tell you what I read, because I'm going to buy a couple of them for friends and family for Christmas. Wish me luck starting up on the next semester.
1 comments:
What does it mean "to bicycle." I assume something with your legs? Hope you'll post some more, esp. vids.
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